There's something extremely heart wrenching about being sung
to. I wonder how many others were thinking this as the staff of
Ishestar Horse Treks stood up and belted out a
rousing song in Icelandic about riding across the highlands.
It's day four of a very special riding holiday. Along with 19
other riders of mixed nationalities, I'm making an epic
journey across the centre of Iceland, travelling from South
to North covering 238 kilometers of inhospitable terrain.
Covering between 25 and 50 kilometers a day over rugged terrain
at a fairly constant trot, this is a ride for experienced riders
who are used to long periods in the saddle. Accommodation is in
mountain huts and showers are few. This is a chance to say
goodbye to civilisation and convene with the Icelandic nature,
the elements and of course, the wonderful Icelandic horses.
On the first day, our guide Lola issues us with thick orange
rain gear, instructs us how to tack up the Icelandic way and
explains her commands for mounting and dismounting. She explains
that we will ride in a line. Not because this is any nose to
tail ride, quite the opposite, each horse is very responsive and
individual. But the terrain is so rocky in many places that it's
necessary to follow a single soft track that has been worn with
time. Also the horses get excited by the herd and riding single
file has a calming influence.
As we set off with the rain bucketing down and a mist
descending, I had the feeling we'd inadvertently signed up for
an endurance test. I was right in that the ride was a challenge,
Mother Nature showed us her full range of tricks as the week
progressed and we had more than our fair share of wind and rain.
But as the days went by I also knew we would all leave stronger
and enriched by our experience.
The Icelandic horses are just wonderful, such characters,
really great dispositions and so endearing. We changed horses at
least once, sometimes twice every day, and travelled with a
herd. In total we had 96 horses with us for 20 guests!
The herd travelled either in front or behind us and I could
never tire of watching them arrive or depart from our lunch spot
or a midway grazing spot. Though little over 14hh, these little
horses ride a lot bigger than they are and carry heavier riders
with ease. Of all the horses I rode I had two favourites,
Gudmunder, a little affectionate bay with a light mouth and easy
tolt and Heimir, a dun who was a little stockier and had such a
smooth trot it was hardly necessary to tolt at all.
For the most part the terrain was rugged, with a moonscape of
rocks as far as the eye could see, then it would give way to
soft trails and deep spongy grass. We'd stop and graze the
horses whenever we reached a green spot, dismounting to rest
their backs. It was always a pleasure to watch them graze and
see the herd arrive or depart. For three days the large glaciers
of Langjökull and Hofsjökull towered above the proceedings and
on day four we had the excitement of three glacial river
crossings - don't forget your long rubber boots for this
one! It's a great experience and the horses make light work of
the crossing despite the strong currents.
Our days range from four to seven hours in the saddle and by
the time we reach our evening's mountain hut, we're ravenous.
Siegrun has gone ahead with the kitchen truck and when we
arrive, dinner is almost ready and never disappoints. Each
night's meal is different and we are treated to Icelandic
staples such as Icelandic soup. She also brings meat from her
farm, and the men catch fish at a couple of points along the
trail. Despite the challenging facilities of a mountain hut, the
food is marvellous. It astounds me how well she manages to cook
for 30 people.
It was really something to experience the tolt, the fifth gait
unique to the Icelandic horse. It's like a running walk and
very smooth to sit to. It allows them to glide over the
rugged countryside. A four-beat gait, often referred to as a
running walk, the footfalls are back left, front left, back
right, front right. It's a fully natural gait which can be
observed in wild youngsters. As we were covering a lot of ground
each day, we spent much of our time in tolt. At least that was
the aim -- with some horses it can take a while to find the tolt
button so this is also a good holiday in which to develop a
deep-seated sitting trot!
The last day was a dream ride for most of us as Lola asked us
the night before which our favourite horses were and we were all
granted our wishes. It was a fast ride with the herd up ahead
all day and the horses keen to make it to their grazing grounds.
As the landscape got greener and civilisation came into view,
any hardship of the past week was forgotten and nobody wanted to
reach the end. After many long days in the saddle, in all
weathers, that last dismount still came too soon.
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