Bastia is the capital of the northern part of Corsica, and marks
the point where the wild peninsula of Cap Corse joins the
mainland. It's closer to the Italian mainland than the French
one, and you can see the island of Elba, where Napoleon was
imprisoned for several years.
Bastia started existence as a humble fishing village named
Marina di Cardo, but in the 14th century became Bastia, named
for the Genoese keep built here. For a very long time, it was
the capital of Corsica overall, and is still the military
headquarters of the island. Terra Vecchia, the older part of
town, is close to the harbor, while Terra Nuova is to the south,
and the most modern part of the city to the north and west of
Terra Vecchia. Terra Vecchia is a maze of alleys strung through
dark vaulted passages, leading past the classical facades of the
law court, theater, city hall, and the Church of San Giovanni
Battista.
Temperatures here are reasonably warm, with only five freezing
weather days each year. But the wind is punishing, with copious
rainfall. Sun shines in Bastia 340 days of the year, despite the
rainfall.
Shopping
In Bastia, expect to be able to find the best cigarettes and
cigars in the area as well as preserves made on the island and
some of the best wines of Cap Corse; also try the Cap Corse
liqueur, made of grapes, at the Mattei Cap Corse store
exclusively. Another item unique to Bastia is the myrtle liqueur
made in this region.
Where to go
It's best to begin exploring Bastia on foot, and to start with
the Old Town section. If you start at the palm-filled place
St-Nicholas, you'll be able to look out onto the port filled
with docked ships, and facing the port many little cafes and
shops along boulevard General-de-Gaulle. Head south down
de-Gaulle (which becomes rue Napoleon) to visit the Eglice de la
Conception, a church with an ornate 18th century interior.
Because the lighting is relatively poor in here, you'll want to
view it on a bright day when you can make out detail. The Place
du Marche behind the church is the main market square in town,
where you'll find dozens of vendors every day but Monday.
Walk around the port to the south to find the New town section
at the base of the ancient fortress that gave Bastia its name.
Near the Jardins Romieu, you'll find the Escalier Romiue steps,
where you can get a great birds-eye view of the islands of
Capraia, Elba, and Montecristo.
Call ahead to see if the Musee d'Ethnographie Corse, in the
Palaise des Nobles Douzes, is open; if you can go in, be certain
to see the Casablanca, a French submarine the Resistance used to
combat Nazi aircraft from the sea.
Cobbled alleyways lead away from here to the 15th century
Cathedrale Ste-Marie, with classic Baroque décor gleaming with
gilt. Behind the cathedral, the Chapelle Ste-Croix (named for a
relic – a blackened oak crucifix discovered by fishermen in the
ocean in 1428 and called Christ of the Miracles) resembles a
theater more than it does a church.
Where to eat and stay
Near the Governor's Palace on the heights of Terra Nova, you'll
find La Citadelle, a rustic and intimate restaurant with an
ancient olive oil press as the centerpiece of the décor. It's
fairly expensive, but delicious, particularly the rockfish soup.
A Scaletta, somewhat less expensive, is a great place to eat
fish and seafood fresh from the sea.
For the best view in Bastia, stay at Pietracap, five minutes
north of town and high on a hill. It's a very modern hotel with
a fragrant garden, and the lobbies and hallways are decorated
with paintings by the owner's brother. For a less-expensive
stay, Posta Vecchia is in a great location, right next to the
quai. The rooms are a little small and the décor more quaint
than classy. A room in the main house facing the port is your
best bet.
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